Travel Writer; Stephen Rae, "New Ireland Shark Callers"

Wokabaut PNG

Published in Air Nuigini Inflight magazine, Feb/ March 2014 issue

Written by Stephen Rae

Customs, culture and traditions is synonymous with the people of Papua New Guinea, however westernised, industrialised the country is becoming. Still, over 85 % of her people live in the rural areas, in the high mountains, vast flatlands to the hundreds of islands that make up the country. Many of the lands are untouched by the influence of mining and the economic boom and her people still practice the old ways of their ancestors.

New Ireland, the Island Province which lies within the confines of the Bismarck Sea, in the north of PNG, is littered with white sand beaches and a mountainous interior that divides the province. We travel out of Kavieng town in the far north, down the Boluminski Highway passing the small coastal villages before heading south into the interior. One must pass over the mountain range that takes us to the isolated southern part of the island. Where electricity and running water is a distant dream, and telephones an unknown reality with mountains that end at the waters edge. Numerous small villagers and thatched roof built houses line the small dirt track that connects them all as we head west along the coast. This is traditional living with the sea as their backyard. I also have to say too, the greatest collection of blond haired island kids I have ever seen. Something in the genes maybe.

After having a fear of sharks brought about by watching the movie “Jaws” in my youth I now find myself on the journey to Kontu Village to witness the traditional art of Shark Calling by the locals. I do recommend however, not swimming in the sea whilst this three day Cultural Festival is happening, for obvious reasons. However fresh water streams to bathe and cool off are plentiful, coming down from the mountains that tower above us. A fantastic way to start and end ones day.

The festival is staged anytime between June and July which signals the end to hunting season and a change in the weather patterns. It’s a three day event where dance groups from surrounding local villages plus dance groups from the mountains and the North Coast journey to become part of the event. In a way it helps strengthen and maintain the ties between these somewhat distant villages and for a small moment in time the people of the shark calling villages of Kontu, Tembin and Mesi, proudly display their traditions and their importance to all who would listen.

While the traditional dancers commence on the festival grounds, with intermittent rain and somewhat muddy field, which bothers no one, the men have taken to the canoes in the early morning and paddled out into the open sea.

Shark calling is almost religious in nature as it defines and determines the link between man, creation and the shark. A skill and a belief that has been practised over many centuries and is unique to this part of PNG. It is said there is a spiritual connection between the caller and the shark, following the belief of the villagers that their ancestors reside in the bodies of the Mako shark. By calling to their ancestors they believe it will bring the shark to them. Strangely enough, often the patterns of the carvings on the side of Shark Caller’s canoe will match the markings and colourings of the sharks skin signifying the spiritual connection between man and beast. There is a variety of sharks that reside in these waters, from reef sharks, black and silver tips, even the feared tiger and hammerheads. However, the Shark Caller, calls to his ancestors and it is hoped the Mako shark appears.

Once close enough to the reef, the shark caller will throw a spear, piercing the coral to arouse “Moro” the shark god and to signal his arrival. He then uses a larung which is rattle made up of coconut shells and bamboo and periodically thrashes the water with it as he chants the age old songs of the shark callers and awaits the coming of the shark.

The shark god has been quiet as the first day of the festival passes as no sound from the conch shell has been heard, that which symbolises the catching of a shark. No one is deterred and as night falls and dinner is eaten, stories are told of past fishing exploits, shark catching and the potential for tomorrows hunt.

The following morning as we eat our breakfast the shark callers have already left for the open sea and surrounding coral shoals. On the festival grounds new dance groups from the north have arrived to take part in the event. There is rejoicing as old friends and family members met up after a long absence, as it is rare to travel to this part of the coast.

Then in the distance, the soft identifiable sound of the conch shell cries out over the festival grounds, all dancing is stopped and everyone is on the move to water edge to witness unfolding events. Out on the water we can see the canoes coming together, closing upon one single canoe. The cry from the Conch shell rings out along the coast as all start the paddle into shore, with the successful Shark Caller at the head. He is meet by his wife with tears in her eyes, for her man has given great honour and respect to the family by successfully displaying the skills of their forefathers and the first of the shark callers to succeed.

The shark is then presented to the people, photos are taken and chests swell with pride as traditions and culture are maintained by the Shark callers of New Ireland. On the rocky shore the shark is then cut up and the meat shared between the various families with the successful shark caller retaining the fin and a healthy section of the beast for his immediate family to feast on.

To enable the Shark Caller to be successful he must follow rituals on land, out at sea, chant the songs and shake the rattle all attracting a shark close to his canoe. However he must then catch the shark. He places a noose made of platted cane attached to a wooden propeller float and by using bait, he lures the shark into the noose. Once captured and unable to move forward, the shark struggles violently before either slowly drowning or the wooden float brings it to the surface, where the shark caller must use a club and bash and kill the shark before pulling it aboard his canoe. It is sometimes a bloody affair.

Even though it’s the biggest time of the year for the area as many local people travel to take part in the festival the dates of the festival changes depending on the will of the sea, the weather and the best time of the villagers making it sometimes difficult to plan the journey there. But people do as we saw, a French Advisor working for a local NGO in country hitched a ride with her daughter, making it to the festival. The cute white kid made an impact with the local children, but also shows that people are welcomed and the growing desire for more tourists to witness their traditions.

Keep an eye on the TPA website or even the New Ireland Tourist Bureau on exact dates, if your lucky you’ll catch the Malagan and the Yamat Cultural festivals on the North side of the Island which showcases many of the traditional masks of the region. Accommodation is available in the few Bungalow guest houses and homestays between Tembin and Kontu villages and the locals are happy to help out and excited to see you. Travel time from Kavieng is about three hours on a good day and bring heaps of bottled water.

The Festivals are an endless and exciting opportunity to witness the culture and traditions of the many tribes of Papua New Guinea, so be brave and venture forth.

The End

Wokabaut PNG

Written by Stephen Rae